A Shrine for the Wandering: The Non-Catholic Cemetery of Rome

Table of Contents

1. Introduction

2. A Peaceful Retreat

3. Resting Among Greats: Notable Figures

4. Conclusion

1. Introduction: A Quiet Corner

Rome is huge, and the number of its tourist attractions including monuments, museums, historical sites, and whatnot, is infinite. If you are lucky enough to pay a visit to the capital of the Roman Empire, you'll have a ton on your to-do list!

After enduring a long journey and being so hyped up to visit the city, a cemetery might be the last place you'd want to visit. However, for those sensitive souls enamored with literature and poetry or anyone looking for a place to get away from the city's hustle and bustle for an hour or two visiting a cemetery wouldn't be such a bad idea. Especially when it happens to be the resting place of some of the greatest voices of British Romanticism.

The Angel of Grief

I'm not a huge fan of adding too much historical details about a place as readers can easily look them up on the internet. It suffices to say that the Cimitero Accatolico was established at the beginning of the 18th century to provide a burial place for non-Catholics since authorities wouldn't allow them to be buried in Catholic cemeteries. As the number of English visitors taking part in the Grand Tour increased over the years, and some of them preferred to stay in Italy or were (un)fortunate enough to die there, allocating a burial ground to them seemed only natural.

But enough with the history! Why does it matter to visit this place?

A rather unassuming entrance!

2. A Peaceful Retreat

Even if you're not into history, architecture or poetry, chances are that you'll appreciate the beauty and serenity of the garden and the cemetery. The moment you enter through its rather unassuming gate on Via Caio Cestio, you immediately notice the stark contrast between its atmosphere and that of the surrounding neighborhood. Despite my expectations, I was still so speechless by the peaceful and untroubled scenery that before I knew it, I donated my precious two quid so that the caretakers wouldn't bother me anymore!

Cimitero degli ingelesi -The English Cemetery- as the locals call it

You may argue that it's a cemetery like any other in Europe, and you may be right, yet you could also be wrong! The cemetery is quite unique in Rome and Italy as it aligns more with the ideals of Romanticism in its poetic and intimate atmosphere. As its name suggests, Catholicism doesn't hold much sway here so you won't find that structured and formal layout that you may normally see in Italian cemeteries. Instead, the mixture of styles and encroaching vegetation all over has bestowed a wild yet melancholic character to the cemetery.

Dear whoever is reading this --- Don't forget to smile today-photo by Ehsan Abdollahi

However, that's not all this place has to offer! On your left you'll see a rather narrow hallway. Follow it and it will lead you to an open area which has little to do with what you have seen before! In the background, you can't miss the imposing body of a pyramid! Yes, you heard it right! Of all the places that you might expect to find a pyramid, there is one right here on the margins of the cemetery! But let's not get carried away. Here tall trees, few and far between, provide a rather garden like quality to the place. Tombstones are also fewer than the previous area, offering a more organized and relaxing scene. If you're not in a hurry, this is exactly the place to take a seat on one of the benches, enjoy the serenity of the surrounding and contemplate. As you do, you might notice that some visitors have gathered in front of two tombstones in the corner of the hall.

3. Resting Among Greats: Notable Figures

The Protestant Cemetery of Rome is the resting place of many famous historical, artistic, and literary figures. Among many are the British sculptor Richard James Wyatt (1795-1850) and the American sculptor William Wetmore Story (1819-1895)- the creator of The Angel of Grief. Among influential Italian figures buried here are anti-fascist politicians and activists Antonio Labriola (1843-1904) and Antonio Gramsci (1891-1937), as well as the Italian actor and theater director Arnoldo Foà (1916-2014) who figure prominently.

Part of layout of the graveyard- As you past the gate you immediately find yourself standing at a fork which leads you to different parts of the cemetery

But of course, the first time many visitors come to this place they have only two names in mind: the British Romantic poets Percy Bysshe Shelley (1792-1822) and John Keats (1795-1821). I was no exception! I remember the first time I visited the place, after spending the first couple of minutes staring in disbelief and orienting myself at the gate, I asked for very specific directions with my broken Italian:

"I'm sorry, where is ...?"

Before I finished my sentence, two lady caretakers answered, "Oh John Keats? You have to take the left!", proving that this is the most common question they're asked by visitors!

John Keat's Tombstone next to his fellow painter Joseph Severn-Photo by Ehsan Abdollahi

The grave of John Keats is located in the North-Western corner of the yard and next to him lies his close friend, the painter Joseph Severn, who remained with Keats during his travel and stay in Italy. Decades later, Severn was also buried next to him. I recommend visitors spend a couple of minutes here maybe take a seat on a bench close by and clear your mind for a while. You won't regret it!

After visiting the young poet's resting place, you can appreciate the surprising wonder adjacent to the cemetery: the pyramid of Cestius. Built over 2000 years ago, the pyramid is a testament to the graveyard's multi-layered aesthetics. Though technically not part of the graveyard, the tomb, modeled after the tombs of the great Pharaohs, is another element that renders the place so out-of-this-worldly and unique.

Pyramid of Cestius

On your way back to the main yard, crossing a narrow passageway at the upper part of the cemetery, you'll come across a sign that directs visitors to Shelley's tomb.

Photo by Ehsan Abdollahi

Here lies the poet of Ozymandias and Adonais. Shelley died a year after Keats, and on his tomb, his date of birth and death are inscribed in Latin. There is also a verse engraved on it from The Tempest, Shakespeare's final play, that beautifully sums up the Romantic idea of death, not as an end but as a transition and a transformation.

Nothing of him that doth fade, But doth suffer a sea-change Into something rich and strange - Photo by Ehsan Abdollahi

4. Conclusion

Whether you describe yourself as an adventurer, a romantic, or simply a visitor seeking peace of mind, you probably won't be disappointed by a visit to the Non-Catholic Cemetery of Rome. Sure, visiting the Trevi Fountain is a must, but this cemetery has also its charm. With its serene atmosphere and rich layers of history, it offers more than the graves of famous figures like Shelley and Keats. It serves as a reminder of the transient beauty of life and death.